The coarse fishing bonanza continued while August turned to September. MR from Norwich scored 6 barbel and 13 chub at Middle Hill Court, followed a day later by GR from Yeovil with 2 barbel and 50 chub. CF from Alton fished at Middle Ballingham and Fownhope No 8 for 3 barbel to 6 pounds and no less than 90 chub. AW from Crew with a friend had 5 barbel and 20 chub from Upper Breinton, while CH from Newport had 2 barbel and 9 chub to 4.5 pounds from Foy Bridge. As usual, there were some complaints. RW from Bradford on Avon was disappointed at being left to pick up the litter left by previous anglers at Upper Hill Court. There were numerous reports of successful days at the Beacons reservoirs, Llwyn on and Usk, but PL from Merthyr Tydfil was annoyed at catching 26 perch at Usk along with his 4 trout and suggested a campaign of perch extirpation: “…something needs to be done.” I would suggest maybe trying fly fishing rather than worm to avoid most of the unwanted perch? More seriously, GD from Pentre with a friend took 8 trout at Llwyn On, but as they arrived in the morning found the bony remains of a fish barbecue on still smouldering fires left by overnight stayers. I concede that we really should ask Welsh Water to look at that problem.

3 1/4lb trout from the Usk below Brecon in early September

RA from London fished the Cilsane section of the famous Golden Grove beat of the Towy and was grateful for the help of James, the gillie. Fishing by day, he caught 13 brown trout. Along with 8 trout, SR from Llangynidr caught a grayling of 18 inches, (or 2.5 pounds) at Abernant. He requested that anglers provide more details about methods and flies in their reports. VZ from Chalfont St Giles had serious complaints to make about Newham Farm on the Teme, where he found the access below high banks very difficult. He added that he had much better access and also a few grayling with help from another Teme landlord a few miles away.

MH from Wiltshire was another who found access to the Dore at Chanstone Court extremely difficult, particularly the section downstream from the bridge. As he pointed out, with all the prickles and barbed wire this is not a place to take waders you care much about! On 1st September, while showers of rain were passing over, CH from Milton Keynes had a barbel of 8 pounds plus 15 chub from Middle Ballingham and Fownhope No 8. CG from Leeds fished at the Creel for 9 chub: “Barbel seem to have gone missing…thunder and lightning to the left, clay pigeon shooting to the right. We were stuck in the middle with the chub!” MN from Leatherhead was at Thomas Wood: “Having caught 3 barbel in my lifetime, to come to the Wye and get 6 in an afternoon was amazing.” He caught 4 chub too.

CD from Ystrad Meurig fished at Whitney Court in heavy rain and a rising river for 3 barbel to 7 pounds 3 ounces and 10 chub. AA from Norwich tried the Wild Streams at Parc Fishery and caught 7 trout: “The fish I did manage to catch were small but beautiful and dark.” A short report from RW from Stroud captured the mood of a day in the high mountains: “Weather cloudy with a westerly wind. Fished Rosgoch for a couple of hours without success so moved down to Blaenmelindwr, which was sheltered from the wind and caught 2 brown trout that had been feeding on damsel flies.”AP from Manchester was another happy angler after a day on the Lugg at Lyepole (3 trout and 3 grayling): “Really enjoyed the day. Thanks to the Foundation for really easy booking.” AA from Norwich fished the Lower Crai and caught a trout of 1 pounds 10 ounces on an Olive Comparadun – truly a specimen for such a small stream.

CG from Leeds with a friend pressed on with the coarse fishing, catching 2 barbel and 48 chub from Fownhope No 5 on the 3rd. MG from Chingford reported 4 barbel, 9 chub, an eel and a large dace while fishing a rising river at Middle Ballingham and Fownhope No 8. NW from Ross on Wye with a friend fished Thomas Wood for 9 barbel, 26 chub and 5 eels.

Courtfield barbel - RC from Lydney
Home Fishery - AS from Malton

Meanwhile HD from Coral Gables fished the Middle Bran for 5 trout to 7 inches. (Yes, I wondered where Coral Gables is too, and found out that it is in Florida. It’s always nice to welcome guests from overseas). MN from Bristol wisely picked a quiet day at Glan yr Afon now that the school holidays are over and caught 7 trout including specimens of 18, 17 and 16 inches. AA from Norwich with a friend had 16 trout to 2 pounds 3 pounces while fishing the fast water at Abercynrg. RB from Bromyard had a small trout on a nymph fishing at Hindwell Coombe and I had some sympathy when he wrote that at 80 years old he is starting to find the Wild Streams difficult to get around. A neighbour to the beat suggested to him some alternative parking to the one listed on the directions, which might require clarification from the Passport Office?

JD from Chippenham with a friend reported a big fall of flying ants at Llyn Craigypistyll near Aberystwyth. I wish I had seen that. They caught 10 trout on small black patterns. RM from Yeovil was fishing for salmon when he caught a small chub with a single hooked Flying C at Goodrich Court on 4th September. However, we should remind everybody that spinning on the Wye, which comes under Welsh cross-border river byelaws, legally ends on 31st August.

Hill trout - Llyn Dulyn, GJ from Sevenoaks
Penpont - JD from Patrixbourne

The weather continued as strange as it has been all this season: warm and humid, great towers of cumulus cloud drifting up from the coast with occasional lightning and thunder storms. We hardly saw the sun and mist hung over the hills in daytime darkness. Some of the showers were truly tropical in their intensity, but nevertheless intermittent and very much localised. To my surprise, there were only a couple of minor and short-lived lifts in water levels on the rivers during this rainy period. 6 inches on the upper Wye for a day or so seems to have sparked just a little salmon activity, the first in a long while. Mike Foster had a 9 pounds fish from Glanwye on the 5th. March Harris caught a small cock fish of something like 6-7 pounds from Chapel Catch at the bottom of Llangoed and Lower Llanstephan on the same day. He was using a Silver Stoat tied on a ½ inch copper tube. I can remember once in high summer catching a 6 pounds grilse on an 11 foot switch rod from those same deep gutters; that very welcome fish came up for a size 12 Black Pennell on the dropper on that day.

AA from Norwich caught 17 trout from the Usk’s Dufnant beat, the best fish being a very impressive 3 pounds 2 ounces. MN from Bristol recorded a 19 inch specimen in a bag of 6 trout taken at Upper Tower; that one would also have weighed around 3 pounds. PB from Churchdown with a friend reported 17 trout to 16 inches taken with a Grey Duster Parachute at Llangadog on the Towy. However, no sewin were to be found. Such is likely to be the future for these South Wales rivers, I am afraid. And NG from Bampton caught 2 barbel and 10 chub while trotting meat at Caradoc on the middle Wye. SD from Rotherham fishing with two friends at Middle Hill Court, while acknowledging the stirling efforts of keeper Stefan, put in a plea for more bank improvement and investment by fishery owners. RH from Ashford asked for more ropes at the same beat. This worry about the banks became a common theme during a month of rain and mud. However MJ from Weston-Super-Mare pronounced him pleased with the fishing at Wyebank: “Nice day’s fishing in the rain.” He caught 5 barbel, 5 chub and an eel. RR from Bridgend fishing at Upper Breinton reported 1 trout, 3 barbel to 8 pounds, 12 chub, 24 dace and 2 perch including a 2 pounder. The river was slightly coloured. JJ from Stourbridge with a friend fished the Usk at Dinas and caught 16 trout. AA from Norwich fished at Buckland and also reported 16 trout to 2 pounds 1 ounce: “A good day, not a great day.” Ah well, fair enough. We do try to please.

Lower Crai - AA from Norwich
Abercynrig - AA from Norwich

On the 6th MB from Northampton while fishing at the Creel had 7 barbel to 7 pounds and 37 chub to 4 pounds. MH from Swansea put in a remarkable effort, fishing the Usk at the Breconshire Fishery for trout and the Wye at the Rectory for salmon, all on the same day. No cigar on this occasion, sadly. AS from Wallingford recorded 4 barbel and 40 chub from Middle Ballingham and Fownhope No 8. He was at Caradoc on the following day for 3 barbel and 10 chub. NA from Oundle caught 1 barbel and 15 chub at Fownhope No 5. AF from Stroud fished Upper Clochfaen at the top of the Wye and had a brace of trout including an 18 inch fish. MD from Walton on Thames had 10 trout on dry flies at Greta Farm. IM from Gloucester caught 3 trout from rising water in the Bideford Brook under the Forest of Dean, but was not happy about the access. This was mainly due to a herd of cattle including a bull now present in the field on the right bank of the river, along with the associated electric fencing to keep the beasts out of the water. It’s difficult to give advice about this one; the bankside field are usually reserved for silage while the cattle are normally kept on the other side of the road. The farmer has his priorities and he needs to fatten his livestock. It is admittedly a bit of a bore, but if you don’t want to walk through cattle it is possible to wade up the whole beat in the river channel bar a couple of diversions up onto the left bank to get around fallen trees, and you can even come back to your car via the village if you wish. Just keep turning right. BC from Northamptonshire caught 1 barbel and 14 chub from Holme Lacy 3 and Lechmere’s Ley, while AT from Basingstoke fished through rain showers at How Caple Court for 1 barbel at 8 pounds 9 ounces, and 11 chub to 5 pounds 2 ounces.

Thomas Wood barbel - AM from Bristol
Craig Llyn - DCO from Redditch

RE from Cwmbran caught just 2 chub at Fownhope 5 on 8th September and expressed himself in very strong language about the pathways and bank access after the previous day of heavy rain: “…and WUF heed this message, I am really not joking?????”  RE tells us he was constantly falling over on slippery paths and that in wet conditions the beat will not hold its full complement of three anglers. Interestingly Fownhope 5 was fished next day by CG from Leeds with a friend who caught 8 barbel and 20 chub between them: “Not a bad day’s fishing on a rising river. Best fish 10 pounds 2 ounces. All fish on pellet feeder tactics. Lovely stretch of river.” CG seems to have had a much better experience. I looked back over one month of catch returns for Fownhope 5 and in that period found 20 reports by anglers who had caught fish and only one other mentioned slippery paths. As I don’t know this beat I am unable to comment more without giving general advice about wearing cleated boots rather than felt soles, taking dog spikes and ropes, but the WUF or the owner might wish to do so.  SB from London caught 12 trout and 4 grayling on wet flies at Ty Newydd on the upper Wye. The level was lifting a little more now and Mike Foster caught a 9 pounds summer salmon from Glanwye. Wyesham reported another of 8 pounds in coloured water, taken on a Cascade Tiger Tail tube. DM from Camberley who fished Middle Hill Court on the 9th with 2 friends reported: “A very nice day for all three of us. A big thanks to Stephan, not just for this visit but also our 2 previous visits…His help makes the day more enjoyable. 8 barbel all ranged from 6-9 pounds, which is a good stamp for the Wye, and 3 lost in snags. 27 chub 1-5 pounds…”   

The rain showers now became really heavy and by the evening of the 9th both rivers were rising, leading to a proper flood and more rain by the next day. SB from Reading who fished alone at Thomas Wood reported: “Very wet and windy but the barbel didn’t seem to mind. Seven nice fish between 4.5 and 9.5 pounds all on halibut feeders close in to avoid all the debris coming down.” CB from Bradford on Avon fished alone at Middle Hill Court: “A red letter day, despite rain and wind. 15 barbel banked, several more lost. Largest fish weighed at 10 pounds 4 ounces with several more just under 10 pounds and smallest fish at 5 pounds. All fish in superb condition. An amazing afternoon’s fishing, in solitude in the rain. Quite magnificent. Thank you.” AM from Worcester with 2 friends went up to Llyn Bugeilyn through cloud, rain and a gale of wind, but had a great time taking 30 trout on Black Hoppers. Regular MH from Swansea found thick water conditions on his season beat at the Upper Wye’s Rectory a bit much for salmon fishing, but managed to fish the Usk at the Breconshire Fishery on his way home. He caught 24 brown trout variously on emergers, spiders and nymphs: “Quite a special autumn day’s fishing.” AT from Basingstoke was another angler with praise for Stephan at Middle Hill Court. He reported 7 barbel and 11 chub. Next evening he fished at Thomas Wood, catching 12 barbel to 9 pounds and 5 chub to 5 pounds 9 ounces. JM from Crowborough with a friend roamed all over Fownhope No 5 to catch 10 barbel to 10 pounds 12 ounces and no less than 68 chub from 2-5 pounds. NS from Brentford stayed at Devil’s Bridge in West Wales and fished Aberystwyth AA’s Pond Rhosrydd for a brace of brown trout including a fish of 2.5 pounds. PT from Kidderminster managed 1 trout and 15 grayling fishing the Lugg at Eyton, mainly with a Pheasant Tail Nymph.

As you might expect, the flush of high water stirred the salmon up a bit once more. On the 12th Wyesham reported a fish of 7 pounds on a Junction Shrimp, followed by 3 more on the 13th. Two fish, 14 and 17 pounds, both on a Willie Gunn tube fly, were reported from Nyth and Tyrcelyn on the upper river on the same day, followed by a 9 pounder on the 14th. James Blachford had a fish of 15 pounds from Glanwye on the 15th. Dennis Cotter fished his regular beat at Llangoed and Upper Llanstephan and caught a cock fish of 15 pounds on a Silver Doctor tied on a no 6 double. You couldn’t call this a dramatic run for the Wye, but after the drought of the summer it was very welcome. Abercothi on the Towy reported no less than 15 salmon over the previous 6 days.

We had a sudden drop in temperature on the morning of the 13th, with the first ground frosts of the year showing in Forest hollows. Regular Dave Collins from Moccas fished at Ty Newydd, but found his access restricted due to the high water – 1ft 5 inches on the Llanstephan gauge. There were some flies hatching and he managed 1 trout and 8 grayling nevertheless. On the 14th LE from Usk made the journey up to Llyn Bugeilyn where he caught 30 trout on claret-coloured patterns, which sounds like a traditional approach. However, his day was spoiled by trespassers who insisted on swimming in the lake while he fished. Their proffered justification that they had “paid subs to Canoe Wales” is of course totally irrelevant, except perhaps for the fact that Canoe Wales also have a pretty cavalier attitude to private property. NM from Shoreham by Sea had a worse experience at Dinas, on the Usk just outside Brecon. Firstly he found the outer gate off the layby on the by-pass was hanging on one hinge and he strained his back trying to drag it open. Secondly he encountered and challenged – for which thanks – two local poachers who were spinning the Usk. These two were apparently quite threatening, which I can well believe having had a similar experience on the same beat. NM did make a call to the WUF, although I note that this was on a weekend. Were the police called? I can imagine that all this took any residual pleasure out of NM’s day, for which I sympathise. JM from Lancaster on the following day noted the unpleasant sewage discharge to the upper part of the beat, which is another problem for what is really one of the best trout fishing beats on the Usk.

Home Fishery - RM from Tring
Llyn Dulyn trout - GJ from Sevenoaks

Warmer weather followed with high pressure and clear skies. As the level of the Wye dropped, MJ from Bristol caught 19 chub at Fownhope No 5, “… a thoroughly enjoyable day.” AS from Malton with a friend had 10 barbel to 10 pounds 6 ounces plus 10 chub from How Caple Court. CH from Bridport recorded 4 barbel to 5 pounds plus a big catch of chub to 5 pounds 2 ounces at Middle Hill Court: “…a magnificent day’s fishing.”   

Joe Alexander of Rhayader fished the Ithon at Llandewi over two consecutive days, for 12 and 14 trout respectively. On 16th PA from Bristol had a slightly curious catch on nymphs from the Bideford Brook, reporting 2 trout, a perch and a rudd. The last looks a bit like a roach to me, but I could be wrong. SM from Redditch with a friend took 2 barbel and 22 chub at Caradoc, while AH from Witney caught 8 barbel to 9 pounds 1 ounce and 16 chub to 5 pounds from Home Fishery. He also put in a plea for access ropes during the wetter months. AT from Basingstoke caught 8 barbel to 9 pounds 4 ounces and 10 chub to 5 pounds 6 ounces at Wyastone Leys. AT from Hereford fished the Ithon at the Severn Arms no 1 beat, catching 10 trout and 14 grayling including a big one. DW from Poole noted brown foam in the river while catching 2 barbel at Wyastone Leys and wondered whether this might indicate a raw sewage discharge. Well, not necessarily so, I should caution; don’t believe everything you read about the Wye in the papers. I do remember that old salmon fishers used to complain that the fishing was never good when the foam was collecting on the surface.

By the 18th the rivers had dropped back to a normal level, but there were a couple more salmon to record from the bottom of the Wye. Wyesham reported a fish of 8 pounds and Dave Rickards caught a 10 pounder from Little Run on Upper Bigsweir with an Ally’s Shrimp. Terry Hickman had another from the same pool, while Joshua Bunning caught a hen salmon at Whitney Court. Abercothi on the Towy announced another 8 fish, making 23 so far for September. On the upper Wye Brian Skinner caught a coloured cock fish of 8 pounds from the Ferry Pool at Gromaine. This one took a Thunder and Lightning fished on a dropper while extending line near the bank apparently. Thunder and Lightning is a pattern I used to fish a lot, mainly due to a whimsical fondness for the colour combination. Also I remember the late Stuart Jarvis, gillie at Glanusk, was always on at me to fish a dropper when the water was low. Sometimes I would, but I once asked him: “Isn’t there a big risk playing a salmon hooked on a dropper with the point fly trailing around behind?” He responded: “Not if you have the two flies just 30 inches apart. The chances are that the point fly will just wrap itself around the body of the salmon. I think two flies must look like one thing chasing another thing and they go for that.” I expect he was right. Note that those were, of course, the days of catch and kill.

Thunder and Lightning
Severn Arms beat 1 - AT from Hereford

At this time we had the highest spring tides of the year, so again there was reason to expect some new fish in the lower rivers. Wyesham reported two more salmon on the 20th, at 8 and 11 pounds. The annual total was now standing at around 160, not an impressive figure for the Wye, but with more rain in the weather forecast there were presumably grounds for optimism about the final month of the season. There were rumours about fish seen and taken in the lower Usk. PB from Churchdown with a friend fished the Towy at Llangadog and caught 22 brown trout, but sadly no sewin. AF from Nailsworth fished the upper Wye at the top part of Doldowlod and caught 7 trout and 2 grayling on spiders. AS from Malton with a friend had a “great day fishing on the Wye” at Fownhope No 5, catching 5 barbel to 7 pounds and 18 chub. AM from Bristol had 6 barbel and 5 chub from Thomas Wood. CM from Ware with 2 friends fished at Home Fishery for 10 barbel to 8 pounds 3 ounces and 24 chub to 5 pounds 9 ounces. MT from Brighton was booked on at Wyastone Leys with 3 friends, but the others remained at home with covid – there seems to be a lot of it about again. He caught 4 barbel and 8 chub while being troubled with eels attacking meat baits. SG from Taunton had an interesting day at Upper Breinton on the 19th, using meat on a waggler float, for 5 barbel, 50 chub, 2 trout and 10 perch. GJ from Rangeworthy was fishing at Middle Ballingham and Fownhope no 8, catching 19 chub: “Must say the Wye is fishing so well.” GR from Liverpool was on the same beat and caught 2 barbel and 22 chub. MO from Congresbury caught 18 barbel and 50 chub from the Creel: “Great day fishing…being overcast helped.”

Llandewi - AT from Herefordshire
Season end approaching - JD from Patrixbourne
Abernant grayling - SR from Llangynidr

The day following was more than overcast, being one of thunderstorms and heavy rain. LS from Sevenage with a friend fished at both the Creel and how Caple Court, taking a total of 11 barbel and 24 chub. RK from Boyle in Ireland trotted maggots in fast water at Whitehouse for 3 barbel, 16 chub and 3 trout. MJ from Weston Super Mare caught 12 barbel to 6 pounds and 2 chub to 4 pounds using a feeder at Wyebank. MH from Swansea was up at Gromaine and Lower Llanstephan where the level was still low so that he used the rout rod although rain and storms eventually stopped play. He fished an Usk Naylor variant – known as an Usk wet fly, but why not – and caught 9 trout and 20 grayling.

AK from Blandford Forum fished at Upper Breinton despite rain and muddy water, reporting 4 barbel, 9 chub and a sea trout. The last was a great surprise! CM from Ware at How Caple Court reported 10 barbel to 10 pounds 2 ounces, 2 chub and an eel. RP from Gloucester found dark water at Monnow Valley, but caught his first brown trout: “which made my day.”  I bet it did! Congratulations and let’s hope there are many more. RH from Wincanton caught 6 barbel in coloured water at Middle Hill Court: “Great to finally meet the infamous Stefan, nice bloke for a chat.” See here, RH, the much admired Stefan is only infamous in the Three Amigos sense, meaning “more than famous!”  On the 23rd TD from Chelmsford caught 3 barbel and 2 chub at Sugwas Court. One of the barbel weighed 11 pounds 5 ounces, which I think is the biggest this year.         

The promised rain had arrived all right, but in a very localised and intense manner, flooding roads and building the water tables steadily over the next few days. By 22nd September southern Britain had some 20 flood warnings and 85 alerts in place. The effect on our river systems was unusual. Some of the upper tributaries hardly changed level. The upper Wye remained in reasonable condition, but heavy flow incoming from the Irfon and Ithon produced a slug of high and very dirty water which ran from Builth down to the bottom end. The top of the Usk rose just a few inches, but the lower end at Trostrey was in full and dirty flood by the 23rd. The Monnow ran dirty, but not particularly high. Any flood is a sight to watch. Have you ever noticed the curious fact that a river in flood runs silently, like some sleek and powerful animal? The accustomed background sounds have gone because all the noisy, trickling shallows are covered. Most anglers struggled, but a few were pleased.

A group of French anglers split the beats of the upper Usk between themselves and PD from Maltot had a 16 inch trout on dry fly at Cefn Rhosan Fawr. RG from Preaux Bocage fished at Penpont: “A few takes; nothing caught; a very pretty spot; the river was at a perfect level.” AR from London took 4 trout to 1.5 pounds with 8 grayling on spiders and nymphs from the upper Irfon beat of Serendipity House. TW from Newport was really excited by a day with a friend at Wyastone Leys. The river was up by 1.5 metres, but fishing with hair-rigged halibut pellets they caught 12 barbel, 4 of which were over 9 pounds.

Cefn Rhosan Fawr - KN from Weston Rhyn

Talking to out of town clients lately, those visitors who are fishing our rivers for the very first time, the phrases “chicken farm” and “slurry spreading”  come up at once. It seems that everybody including me thought they knew what is wrong with the Wye, but it is in fact all too easy to mistakenly assign our problems to a single cause. Phosphate levels have certainly been high at times, but a newsletter from the WUF on 5th September gave us some early results of a 2 year survey carried out by Cardiff University about the water quality of the Wye and its recent algal blooms, both the free drifting kind and the slimy coating on bottom stones. Results so far are not quite as expected. More precisely it is not just phosphate levels responsible for our troubles; the matter is more complicated than that. Nitrates, ammonia, water flow volumes and water temperatures are all likely to be part of the problem. This implies a need for more nuanced approach to protecting and restoring the river. Hopefully we will hear some more detail about this during the WUF AGM on 15th November. Personally, I would like to congratulate the WUF for having the courage to be openly frank about the situation and the possible need to change the direction of their efforts. Which is quite a contrast to most political organisations in the modern world, which prefer to change direction and indeed break pledges while hoping nobody will notice.


Meanwhile the crayfish plague problem experienced on the Irfon tributary is as yet unresolved. Other Wye tributaries, particularly the Arrow, are considered to be at risk. Currently the strong advice from environmental organisations on both sides of the border as well as from the WUF is that anglers and others should not enter either the Irfon or the Arrow in an attempt to contain the infection until the problem is over. From our experiences with the same plague in the Forest of Dean, I can advise that resolving this situation may take some time. We are waiting to hear the results of some eDNA testing at the time of writing. I appreciate this wait is frustrating for autumn grayling fishers who would like to fish both the Irfon and Arrow.


At this time of year while the nights lengthen, I try to be careful during my early and late drives across the Forest. Whether I’m heading for Herefordshire or Wales, I need to cross those miles of thick woods twice each day. No-one wants to hit an animal, particularly a deer, or indeed have the car wrecked. This evening I had a close call with two big black boars. This morning there were two muntjacs running from the bracken across in front of me, and a fallow doe on the verge last night. The handsome fallow deer moving through trees like silent ghosts have always been familiar encounters when walking quietly at either dawn or dusk, but even they lose some of their caution on the roads as the rutting season approaches.

During the centuries when the Dean was a royal hunting forest, a surprising number of people seemed to have a claim on the King’s deer. Hunting laws were administered by a Swainmote Court and officials known as Verderers, Foresters and Agisters, who “disposed of all cases in which deer were killed without warrant.” There had been a time when killing the royal deer was a capital crime, but later it attracted a year and a day imprisonment in St Briavels Castle, or a very heavy fine. However, each of the Dean’s four Verderers was entitled personally to a buck and a doe every year. The holder of the title “Chief Forester in Fee and Bow-Bearer to the King” claimed the right to kill 10 bucks and 10 does every year, and additionally to be entitled to the right shoulder of every deer killed in the Forest. He also had the right to hawk, hunt, fish and fowl within the Forest. In return for these privileges he would attend the King with a bow and arrow and six men clothed in green, whenever the monarch wished to hunt in the Dean. Even stranger was the ruling that any archbishop, bishop, earl or baron summoned to the King and passing on his way through a royal forest, had the right to “take and kill one or two deer, by the view of the Forester, if he be present, or cause one to blow an horn for him that he seem not to steal the deer.”

 The “fence month” or fawning season, 15 days before to 15 days after mid-summer day, was strictly observed. All dogs were to be kept in at the peril of the owner and any found “hunting or out of the highway with bow or gun” would be brought before the Verderers for judgment and punishment. Nor were swine or cattle to be driven or underwood gathered in such a way as to disquiet the deer.

Fallow Buck
Fallow deer

So much for the medieval Forest. It is often said there has always been a herd of between 800 and 1,000 fallow deer in the Dean, since the Forest’s time as a royal hunting domain. That idea is not strictly true; the number of deer in the Forest has had its ups and downs, just as the much quoted 20,000 acres of trees has varied tremendously over time (if you include the numerous outlying and private woods on both sides of the Wye, the forested area is rather more than that today). However, it seems clear that the deer had a hard time of it during the Civil War and documents from the time of Charles II’s Restoration suggested that “should His Majesty think fit to restore the game of deer within the said Forrest, the same shall not exceed the number of 800 deer of all sorts at any one time.”

Poacher's gibbet

The famous 19th century Deputy Surveyor of the Forest, Edward Machen, wrote this about the deer:

“When I first remembered the Forest, now 65 years since, the deer were very numerous. I remember my father taking me up to the Buckholt in an evening for the purpose of showing them to me, and we never failed of seeing several: this was about 1790. From that time for 20 years, in consequence of the decrease of the covert and the increase of poachers, they rapidly diminished, until in 1810, when I do not believe there were 10 in the whole Forest. At this period the enclosures were made for the preservation of timber, and woodmen appointed to the care of them; the few deer that were left were protected, and as the young trees grew up so as to afford them shelter, they rapidly increased, and in thirty years, viz. in 1840, I should think there were not less than 800 or 1,000 deer in the Forest.”

According to the Rev Nicholl, the red deer were introduced with help from the Duke of Bedford in 1842 by Mr Herring, who brought them down on 24th February from Woburn, two stags and four hinds. They were in fine condition, and were turned loose in Russell’s Enclosure, one mile from Speech House. The main purpose seems to have been a sporting one. Mr Machen further noted as follows:

“October 1842 – Two of the hinds have calves with them.

October – One of the stags was hunted from Tripenkennet, in Herefordshire, and swam the Wye three times: the hounds brought him into Nag’s Head Enclosure.

July 1844 – Two stags, three hinds, and a calf are now in Park Hill Enclosure, and are frequently seen in the meadow in front of Whitemead. One old stag is at Edge Hills. A hind is sometimes seen in the Highmeadow Woods and it is known that one was killed there.

October – A young hind was sent down, and turned out in Haywood Enclosure.

October 1845 – The two old stags are wandering about, and seldom in the Forest.

October 4th – Hunted the stag near Parkend; ran four hours, but lost him, night coming on.

September 20th, 1846 – The stag that was about Staunton and Newland was killed this day, after a run of three hours. He was found on the old hills near Newland, and killed in Coleford. This was a four years old deer, calved in the Forest; the hind and calf went to Staunton, and never returned: the hind was killed by poachers. The venison of the stag was excellent: the haunches were 45 pounds each.

October 1847 – Another stag was killed after a good run. Two were found, and ran some time together before the hounds in Park Hill.

October 6th 1848 – The last stag returned to the Forest, after having been in the woods, &c, near Chepstow almost a year. He was found in Oaken Hill, and killed, after a run of three hours, in Sallow Vallets. His haunches weighed 51 lbs, and the whole weight 307 lbs.”

These must have been exciting times for those who liked hunting with hounds, but note that such sporting pleasures with the deer seemed to have been reserved for the gentry. Ordinary Foresters resorted to poaching. There’s an old stone up above Soudley, the so-called Drummer Boy’s Stone, which has a sort of iron lined basin cavity into which it is thought that molten lead was dropped to make musket balls Poaching was much disparaged by those of the middle class, particularly the newly arrived clergy who considered themselves to be responsible for improving the moral standards of their flocks. At this time there was a general presumption of moral turpitude in the case of the local population. There is a definitely patronizing tone about pronouncements on this particular sin and within a few years they went so far as a decision to remove all deer from the Forest, merely in order to remove temptation from its human inhabitants. Again, the Rev Nicholl wrote:

“At the time of Lord Duncan’s Committee in 1849 a general feeling prevailed against the deer, on the grounds of their demoralising influence as an inducement to poaching, and all were ordered to be destroyed, there being at that time perhaps 150 bucks and 300 does.” 

Edward Machen summed up, rather wistfully one feels:

“The fallow deer of the Forest were reduced in number after the year 1850 by killing a large number of does. They were all fine animals, and when the enclosures protected them they got very fat, and the venison of fine flavour. They were generally hunted.”

However, the deer were never completely eliminated. Machen might have been pleased to know that today the Dean once more has a maintained herd of some 800 fallow deer, a handful perhaps of red deer in one or two places, plenty of roe deer on the outskirts of the woods running down into in Herefordshire fields, muntjac have arrived and are increasing by leaps and bounds, and there are even rumoured sightings of sika deer. We still have poachers too, sad to relate, using both rifles with suppressors and cross bows. It’s a grisly business. Just this summer a poacher’s gibbet for dressing heavy game on the spot was removed from one of the Douglas firs above our Forest Pool.


I’m closing early this month because our editor Seth, lucky man, is off to Portugal. Afonydd Cymru have featured the Teifi as their River fo the Month for September, which you can read here.

Our trout fishing season will be at an end in just a few more days, so there may be a few late reports to catch up for next month’s letter. We have the best of the grayling to look forward to of course and a couple more weeks of the salmon. The barbel and chub fishermen should be getting into their stride for autumn after a wonderful start this season. Meanwhile, as a reminder of the days of summer past, here is another video from Lyn Davies, this one about small streams. Lyn uses a 7 foot 3 weight Hardy Marksman for this work – I know this, because I bought one exactly the same myself for the brooks, purely because Lyn has one! On the other hand, I also really like my old 7ft Greys Missionary, which is the one I lend to clients. I load it with a Cortlands 444 Sylk floating line, double tapered for a 3 weight. A short rod, light reel, short leader, spool of tippet, box of dry flies and a couple of nymphs is about all you need for this delightful type of fly fishing.

Another spring is not so very far away and the grayling season is already on us – tight lines!

Oliver Burch

http://wyevalleyflyfishing.com

Please note that the views within this report are the author’s and do not necessarily reflect those of the Wye & Usk Foundation.